Things to Do in Jellyfish Lake

Swim with the golden jellyfish

The lake stacks in layers: sunlight above, a cool thermocline at three metres, darker salt water beneath. Kick across the surface. Jellyfish tilt toward light, bells catching sun like liquid amber. Disturb the water and a faint iodine scent rises. One slides across your lips, salty, slightly metallic.

Snorkel the coral gardens outside the lake

Beyond the lake's narrow entrance the seafloor drops to crayon-bright coral heads. Parrotfish crunch coral. Snapping shrimp crackle when you duck under. Drift over lettuce-coral; feel the cool increase of incoming tide swirl past calves.

Kayak the mangrove tunnels

Paddle ten minutes east. Narrow green passageways open beneath arching mangrove roots. Air cools, smells of peat and crushed leaves. Fruit bats flap overhead. Leathery wingbeats echo off water.

Cliff-jump at the old Japanese pier

A crumbling concrete jetty on the island's south side has a six-metre leap into indigo water. Humid days leave the rock slick with spray. Free-fall lasts long enough for your stomach to lurch before warm, buoyant sea slaps you.

Sunset sandbar picnic

Your captain noses onto a blinding white spit that emerges at low tide. Grilled reef fish smokes on a tiny charcoal box. Powder-fine coral sand squeaks underfoot; lime-drenched sashimi still tastes of the morning catch.

Malakal waterfront: rooms on stilts over the lagoon, handy for 7 a.m. boat departures.

Nikko Bay bungalows - surrounded by karst cliffs, you'll hear geckos at night

Meyuns budget lodgings - basic but half the price of waterfront spots

Peleliu homestays: hourly ferries link to Koror. Worth it if you want quiet evenings.

Airai family guesthouses - close to the airport for dawn flights out

Long Island Resort - overwater decks, mid-range splurge